Sunday, February 21, 2010

Beauty in Every Sense of the Word

A Week ago I kicked off my weekend with a hike in the Jerusalem Forest. Although I was still half-asleep at the ungodly hour of 6am, I couldn't help but feel energized by the earthly beauty that surrounded me. The morning mist seeped through the hunter green pine trees that smother the canyon and as we walked, we saw little natural springs or "mikvehs" scattered along the way. The view was truly mystical and even romantic in a sense, and it was hard to believe that we were only 20 minutes outside of one of the most controversial cities in the world. I can't remember ever recognizing nature as one of those rare entities thats both powerful and inspiring but truly devoid of opinion or judgement.

After 3 hours of trudging along the steep canyons, we were divided into groups and told to make different dishes using only raw ingredients and a homemade fire. My group was assigned pita bread and while I do pride myself on making a mean stir-fry, I couldn't help but wonder how I was going to accomplish this without the assistance of a ready-made bisquick mix. But alas, pita is much more simple than I thought-just add dough, water, salt, a couple minutes over the fire and you're ready to chomp! The lunch turned out to be quite a delicious reward and I must say the traditional Israeli meal of labaneh, tahina and pita put our hotdogs and hamburgers to shame...

Several hours later, my friends and I reconvened and kicked off Shabbat with a potluck dinner. Not only was it a tasty and fun enterprise, but it was nice to look out the window and see students in other apartments enjoying the same experience. Regardless of what their religious views or practices are, most families in Israel still share a home-cooked meal every Friday night-a tradition that always seemed somewhat unrealistic to me. After a week of work, we should get to do what we feel like. Sleep if we're tired, go out if we want-not commit ourselves to preparing a feast and engaging in conversation. But since being here, I've eagerly anticipated every Shabbat dinner (I swear my stomach obligingly growls on Friday mornings) and its certainly a cultural tradition I hope to bring back with me.

After yet another fun and relaxing Shabbat, my dad and I got to kick-start our week with a fun volunteer project at Save A Child's Heart. The organization is devoted to performing life-saving heart operations on children all over the world-primarily those who live in countries which lack the necessary medical resources to help them. SACHA puts all political problems aside (in fact half of the assisted children are Palestinian) and focuses on giving innocent children an opportunity to live a healthy life. In addition to providing doctors who donate their time to perform the procedures, SACHA also covers all expenses regarding their surgery. We got to visit the children at the house they stay in pre and post recovery and I can honestly say I think I had more fun then they did!

Since the children come from all over the world, none of us spoke the same language, but I was happy to discover that the language of "playtime" needn't have a dialect or place of origin-we all understand it! In many respects, the kids were completely normal in the ways they laughed, interacted and even fought, but noticing the occasional scar made me realize that they had been through an amount of trauma I couldn't possibly related to and it made me feel very fortunate for my health.

So far my trip has been full of a myriad of unique and meaningful experiences and it never ceases to amaze me that they all stem from a country no larger than New Jersey...

Sunday, February 14, 2010


Only in Jerusalem

Last Monday a couple friends and I decided we were in need of some retail therapy and headed to every girl's haven-the mall. At first glance there is nothing particularly unique about this mall-we entered through the left side-which sits on a busy intersection and perused through the long row of chain stores including a MAC -to serve our beautification woes, a Chanel for the posh shopper and about 4 different cafes scattered throughout to provide that much needed espresso after a long day of shopping.In other words-nothing to write (or blog) home about. But when we got to the end of the corridor, our mouths dropped and our eyes struggled to take in the beauty of it all. Standing before us were the majestic walls of the Old City. The sun's rays glimmered off the thick Jerusalem stone and the city resembled a fortress-begging us to come and explore.

Within a mere two minutes we were no longer perusing through North American chain stores but moseying down the Arab quarter-eyeing their goods and contemplating whether anything was worth the haggle. I eyed two brightly hued, patterned scarves and although it took about 15 minutes and a great deal of determination, I managed to barter my way from 80 to 10 dollars for the pair.

And while I am excited to show off my new accessories, I must admit it is the experience as a whole that gives me the biggest thrill. Only in Jerusalem can one experience such incongruous cultures in the matter of minutes. It is impossible to deny that a religious, cultural and political clash exists here. But it is also that potent diversity that makes this city beautiful and gives it an indescribable air of spirituality. And yes, any tourist will inevitably notice such differences. But living here, it is impossible to escape them. Every day I ride the bus and am saturated in a melting pot of religious convictions. A gaggle of ultra-orthodox girls chatter amongst themselves, while a pair of older muslim women sit across the aisle, waiting in silence for their stop. Sights such as these might seem mundane to everyone else, but it is such a scene that causes me to sigh with awe and think "Only in Jerusalem!"

Tuesday, February 2, 2010


To Live Like a King

In my ulpan, we watched a skit about the rituals of shabbat. While I knew most of the teachings (although I had never heard them explained in hebrew), I didn't know that on shabbat we are supposed to live like royalty. Initially, this idea seemed to contradict the many rules and prohibitions surrounding shabbat. No driving. No turning on the lights. No TV. Is it just me, or is a king the only person who doesn't have to abide to anyone's regulations?! But after this shabbat, I truly have a better understanding and appreciation for the order around this royal day.

On Friday night, I went to a shabbat meal with about 50 other students at a hotel near campus and on Saturday, I went to lunch at Rabbi Daniel Landes'-head of the Pardes Institute and a good friend of my dad's. Although both experiences were quite different, there were some elements that remained the same. Everyone sits around the table-like a royal court. After three short "ceremonies"- the kiddush (prayer for wine), hand-washing and chamotzee (prayer for bread)- the meal commences. On Shabbat, all diet rules are tossed out the window as everyone heaps different varieties of salads and hummus onto fresh slices of bread. After our stomachs are sufficiently satisfied, the second course comes. And finally, when we really can't eat anymore-at least 5 different types of dessert are served and despite our protests of fulness-it somehow disappears from the table. At the end of the meal, everyone sings and says the birkot hamazon (grace) and we stumble back home-fully nourished in both body and soul.

In honor of Tu B'Shvat, my Saturday lunch also included a Tu B'Shvat seder in which we read different excerpts from the Torah and Talmud about the importance of trees. These days, we tend to associate environmentalism with postmodern liberalism and it was interesting to see that environmental advocacy actually began thousands of years ago. The meal also included a representation of all the tree species and although I know I should love figs, I must say I couldn't get enough of the dates!

Jerusalem is truly the only major city in the world that almost fully observes shabbat and I must say it was refreshing to walk along the streets without hearing honking cars or smelling the exhaust from fuel. As I walked to lunch, I said "shabbat shalom" to everyone I saw-regardless of their age, ethnicity- or even religion. I felt a communal environment more intense than any other which is remarkable for city with a population of 800,000.

On Saturday night, the calm, lazy atmosphere quickly shifted into "city" mode and I went out with friends to a trendy jazz club. The club was packed with students and hippies, and the musicians put a modern spin on the classic genre. Only in Jerusalem, can I engage in such opposing activities in an twelve-hour time frame!